The Speedmaster Professional is the watch that went to the moon — and one of the few luxury watches whose design has barely changed since the 1960s. That makes it an ideal entry into mechanical chronographs, but also a watch where the details matter: which movement, which crystal, which generation? This guide helps you choose.
Why the Speedmaster holds a special position
Omega introduced the Speedmaster in 1957 as a sports and racing chronograph. Its career changed when NASA qualified it for crewed missions in the mid-1960s after gruelling tests. In 1969, Buzz Aldrin wore it during the moon landing — it has been the “Moonwatch” ever since. The basic design has remained: black dial, three sub-dials, tachymeter bezel, an asymmetrical case with crown guards and a hand-wound movement.
The four movements — and what sets them apart
- Calibre 321 (until the late 1960s): the column-wheel movement of the early Speedmaster and the moon missions. Vintage examples are collector territory; since 2019 Omega has produced the movement again in small series.
- Calibre 861 (from 1968): cam-actuated instead of column wheel, robust and simpler to produce. The movement of the classic reference 145.022 and most Speedmasters of the 1970s and 1980s.
- Calibre 1861 (from the mid-1990s to 2021): the rhodium-plated evolution of the 861. For many the “classic” modern Moonwatch — proven and comparatively affordable to service.
- Calibre 3861 (since 2021): Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer certified, highly resistant to magnetism, around 50 hours of power reserve. The most precise Moonwatch there has ever been.
Hesalite or sapphire?
The classic Moonwatch has a Hesalite plastic crystal — like the watches of the Apollo missions, because it does not shatter when broken. It scratches easily but can be polished out, and it has a warm, slightly distorting look that many fans love. The sapphire version is scratch-resistant, more reflective and usually has a display caseback showing the movement. A matter of taste — purists choose Hesalite.
Key references on the pre-owned market
- 145.022: the vintage reference with calibre 861, built over many years in several variants.
- 3570.50 (Hesalite) and 3573.50 (sapphire sandwich): the Moonwatch with calibre 1861 from the late 1990s and 2000s.
- 311.30.42.30.01.005 (Hesalite) and .006 (sapphire): the last 1861 generation up to 2021.
- 310.30.42.50.01.001 (Hesalite) and .002 (sapphire): the current Moonwatch with calibre 3861.
What to check when buying
- Test the chronograph: start, stop, reset — several times. The hand must snap cleanly to zero, and the counters must advance correctly.
- Bezel: the aluminium bezel is delicate; dents and scratches are common. Original vintage bezels are a value factor of their own.
- Dial and hands: on older models up to the late 1990s the lume is tritium and ages visibly. Even ageing across dial and hands suggests originality.
- Hand winding: the Moonwatch has no automatic rotor. A watch that “stops after winding” is not a feature but a service case.
- Not every Speedmaster is a Moonwatch: many models carry the name — such as the smaller “Reduced” with an automatic movement. Look for “Professional” on the dial and check the reference number.
Which Moonwatch suits whom?
- Daily wear, precision, warranty: the current 3861 generation.
- A classic with a proven movement and lower entry point: an 1861 Moonwatch.
- A collector’s piece with patina: a 145.022 — with expert inspection of dial, bezel and movement.
Conclusion
The Speedmaster Professional is one of the most honest luxury watches: the same design for decades, mechanical hand winding, real history. Decide on the movement first, then the crystal — and when buying pre-owned, check the chronograph above all. On Bestwrist you will find Omega watches from verified dealers, with escrow payment and buyer protection.