The full service is the watch world’s maintenance logbook: unloved, happily postponed — and ultimately the reason a mechanical movement outlasts generations. This guide soberly explains what happens during a service, which intervals are realistic and why the cheapest quote is rarely the least expensive.
What happens during a service
A complete service is not a cleaning but an operation: the movement is fully disassembled, every part cleaned and inspected, wear parts replaced, everything relubricated, the movement regulated and the watch pressure-tested. Depending on condition, case and bracelet refinishing may be added — which collectors can deliberately decline, keyword original substance. Duration: several weeks depending on movement and workload.
Realistic intervals
- Modern movements: manufacturer recommendations mostly range from five to ten years — modern oils and manufacturing tolerances have extended intervals considerably.
- Vintage movements: rather at the lower end of the spectrum, as older constructions and lubricants age faster.
- The pragmatic rule: send the watch in by condition, not by calendar — a watch running precisely and staying tight does not need preventive opening. But: an annual pressure test costs next to nothing.
The signals that it is time
- Rate deviation increases noticeably — the watch suddenly runs clearly fast or slow.
- The power reserve shrinks: the fully wound watch stops earlier than usual.
- Crown or winding feels rough, stiff or “sandy”.
- Condensation under the crystal: straight to the watchmaker — moisture in the case is an emergency, not a maintenance topic.
Putting costs into perspective
Service costs depend on movement complexity and provider: a simple three-hander is considerably cheaper than a chronograph or complicated watch; brand service is usually pricier than a qualified independent watchmaker — but comes with original parts and service documentation that counts at resale. Important for the purchase calculation: over the holding period, services are among the plannable costs of a mechanical watch, like inspections for a car. A conspicuously cheap “service” finished in days usually was not one.
Service and resale
Keep the receipts! A documented service history is worth real money at resale: it proves care, explains condition and builds trust. Conversely, when buying: a freshly serviced watch with receipt justifies a premium — “runs well” without history does not.
Conclusion
The service is not a nuisance but the price of longevity — plannable, calculable and, spread over decades, manageable. Watch for the signals, test water resistance regularly, keep the receipts: nothing more is needed for a good movement to keep its promise of outlasting generations.