The Submariner is one of the most searched-for watches in the world — and one of the most confusing. Since 1953, Rolex has barely changed the basic recipe, yet constantly refined the details: case size, movement, bezel, bracelet. So when you buy a Submariner, you are not buying “the Submariner” but one specific reference. This guide sorts the key generations and shows what matters when buying.
Date or No-Date: the first decision
The Submariner comes in two basic versions. The No-Date is the original form: symmetrical dial, no date magnifier — for purists the “real” Submariner. The Date version has a date window and Cyclops lens at three o’clock and is the more practical everyday watch. Both share case, bezel and water resistance — the choice is a matter of taste, but it affects supply: the Date version exists in more colour and material combinations.
The generations at a glance
Vintage: 5513 and 1680
The 5513 (No-Date) was built from the early 1960s to the end of the 1980s and is the classic vintage Submariner: acrylic crystal, aluminium bezel, tritium-based lume. From 1969, the 1680 was the first Submariner with a date. For both, the originality of dial, hands and bezel determines value — and that is exactly where parts are swapped most often. Vintage Submariners are collector territory, not an entry point.
The neo-vintage generation: 16610 and 14060
The 16610 (Date, from the late 1980s to around 2010) and the 14060/14060M (No-Date) are the ideal compromise for many: sapphire crystal, 300 metres of water resistance, a proven movement (calibre 3135 and 3000/3130 respectively) — yet still the slim case with narrow lugs and the aluminium bezel that can fade over the years. The 16610LV with its green bezel, introduced by Rolex in 2003 for the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, plays a special role.
Ceramic and maxi case: 116610LN and 114060
With the 116610LN (Date, from 2010) and the 114060 (No-Date, from 2012), Rolex moved to the scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezel, a bolder case with broader lugs, a solid Oyster bracelet and the Glidelock extension in the clasp. The 116610LV with green bezel and green dial is nicknamed “Hulk” among collectors. The case still measures 40 millimetres but wears noticeably larger.
The current generation: 126610LN and 124060
Since 2020, the Submariner measures 41 millimetres, with slimmer lugs again. The Date version 126610LN uses calibre 3235, the No-Date 124060 calibre 3230 — both with around 70 hours of power reserve. The 126610LV pairs a green bezel with a black dial. Since 2015, Rolex has given new watches a five-year warranty, so young pre-owned examples may still carry factory warranty.
What to check when buying
- Reference and serial number: the reference is engraved between the lugs at 12 o’clock; on older models the serial sits at 6 o’clock, on newer ones on the dial’s inner flange. Both must match dial, movement and papers.
- Bezel: fading and scratches are normal on aluminium inserts — a flawless insert on a 30-year-old watch may be a replacement. Ceramic bezels are scratch-resistant but not shatterproof.
- Case edges: the Submariner has distinctive facets on the lugs. Rounded edges indicate heavy polishing — a noticeable value factor.
- Bracelet and clasp: older Oyster bracelets with folded links stretch over time. A worn bracelet is expensive to replace.
- Service parts: after a factory service, hands, dial or bezel may have been replaced. No problem for daily wear, a price factor for collectors — ask whether the original parts are included.
Counterfeits: the bestseller’s risk
No watch is counterfeited more often than the Submariner, and the best copies easily pass a glance from a metre away. They give themselves away in the details: print quality and typeface on the dial, the Cyclops magnification, the engraving on the inner flange, the click of the bezel. Do not rely on photos alone — buy through a route where the watch can be checked before payment is released.
Which Submariner suits whom?
- Everyday watch with current technology and warranty: 126610LN or 124060.
- Modern look, somewhat more accessible on the pre-owned market: 116610LN or 114060.
- Classic proportions, slim case, patina potential: 16610 or 14060M.
- A collector’s piece with history: 5513 or 1680 — only with expert inspection.
Conclusion
There is no “best” Submariner — only the reference that suits your wrist, your budget and your standard of originality. Commit to a generation, check numbers, edges and bezel, and buy with protection. On Bestwrist you will find Submariner references from verified dealers — with escrow payment and buyer protection.